Modern, Post-War and Contemporary Art, Decorative Arts and Wine
Online-Only Auction, 22 - 29 March 2021
Wine: Cape Heritage
About this Item
DeMorgenzon first burst onto the scene in 2005 with this, their debut Chenin Blanc earning a Platter’s 5*, from low-yielding vines planted in 1972. Owned by the Wendy and Hylton Applebaum, the picturesque farm with 360° aspect and high views over False bay and Table mountain is perched on top of Stellenbosch kloof.
Provenance
Producer
Critics Ratings
2014 - 'DeMorgenzon’s Chenin Blancs are consistently among the best in the Cape - maybe it’s the classical music that’s played to them in the vineyards? Rich, floral and slightly tropical, but with no botrtyis this time. Creamy, minerally and well structured with a complex, savoury finish.'- Tim Atkin MW, SA Special Report 2015, 94/100
'Seriously styled 2014 from old bushvines, 10 months on lees prior to barrel selection. Real verve & personality, flaunting delicious layer upon complex layer of ripe apples, peaches & nuts. Richer, more generous style than new Special Cuvée bottling.' - Platter's SA Wine Guide 2016, 4.5*
'The Reserve Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch property DeMorgenzon has been a noteworthy wine ever since the maiden 2005 vintage was rated 5 Stars in the 2007 edition of Platter’s but only now does it seem to have gained the refinement which marks it as truly great. I was super-impressed by the 2013 recently and I think the 2014 (which placed among the winners at this year’s French judged Classic Wine Trophy competition) is even better. The nose is extraordinarily pretty – honeysuckle, lemon and white peach plus just a hint of struck-match reduction. The palate meanwhile is crystalline – pure, pure fruit, a lovely line of acidity and perfectly judged oak. Winemaker Carl van der Merwe says the 2014 has both less botrytis and less oak than the 2013 and it is indeed a supremely elegant offering. ' - Christian Eedes, Winemag.co.za, 95/100
'Opening with a waxy nose with touches of oak and tropical fruits, the 2017 Reserve Chenin Blanc is softly mineral in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, the wine begins with white spiced tea flavors that linger through the mid-palate, offering a kiss of phenolic bitterness with elements of dusty flowers and stone fruit skin. It ends with a persistent, lingering waxy edge and mineral tension. 2,140 cases produced.' - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 90+/100
'(from 43+year-old vines on the farm, which produce a crop level between three and four tons per hectare; no malo): Sexy subtle perfume of peach and dusty nutmeg. Then saline, tightly coiled and very concentrated, conveying a lovely sweetness but also terrific inner-mouth energy to the stone and soft citrus fruits. Finishes firmly phenolic but not at all dry. This wine fermented naturally in the barrel, and was then aged for eight months in one-third new French oak. This is the only vineyard the Appelbaums kept when they purchased the estate in 2004. "They were bush vines; we simply lifted their skirts," said Wendy Appelbaum.'- Neal Martin, Vinous, 91/100
2015 - 'Carl van der Merwe thinks this is the best vintage he’s ever seen in Stellenbosch, and his white is certainly a remarkable expression of Chenin Blanc. Barrel-fermented, leesinfluenced and deliciously savoury, this combines flavours of pear, nutmeg and tarte tatin, a hint of toast and the acidity you expect from this variety.'- Tim Atkin MW, SA Special Report 2016, 95/100
'Some toasty oak aroma on 2015 from old bushvines announces both seriousness & youth. Natural ferment, 11 months in barrels, 25% new. Layered complexity, texturally rich, deep flavours - but nothing overt. Weighty, but graceful rather than ponderous, thanks to vivifying acidity.' - Platter's SA Wine Guide 2017, 4.5*
'The 2015 Reserve Chenin Blanc, which is whole bunch pressed, has a very composed bouquet with gorgeous yellow fruit, nectarine and kumquat aromas, a slight waxiness/wet wool scent loitering in the background. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry, slightly honeyed in texture, the richness of the growing season expressed towards the stem ginger and white pepper tinged, quite savory finish that feels long and generous. Drink now and over the next decade.' - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 92/100
'Bright, light yellow. Pungent, pure aromas of lemon drop and menthol. Shapely and penetrating, showing terrific intensity to the flavors of lemon and grapefruit pith, clove spice and menthol. Strong minerality adds punch to the middle palate and extends the shapely, moderately oaky, very long finish..'-Stephen Tanzer, Vinous, 92/100 (May 2017)
2016 - 'Produced from a wonderful array of slopes and aspects, the DeMorgenzon Chenin is a brilliantly complex wine: exotic yet refreshing, viscous yet bone dry, rich yet restrained. The oak is very well done here, folded into the layers of the wine. Outstanding winemaking.'- Tim Atkin MW, SA Special Report 2017, 95/100
'Restrained 2016 doesn’t surrender easily, but invites & rewards attention. Beautifully poised richness & finesse, the acidity tucked away in silky folds of flavour. Gorgeous in effect, but subtle, with modest oaking (up to 20% new), rather than showy.' - Platter's SA Wine Guide 2018, 4.5*, 94/100
'The 2016 Reserve Chenin Blanc, which will be released summer 2017, was slightly deeper in color compared to other vintages. It has a composed bouquet with nectarine, melted wax and dried pineapple scents, a touch of dandelion in the background. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity. I find more nuance and harmony here compared to the 2015, a delicacy married with intensity in the finish, a tang of clear honey on the aftertaste (although there was no botrytis in the vineyard).' - Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, 93/100